Polysorbate 80 (also called Tween 80) is a liquid emulsifier and solubiliser that helps oil-based ingredients blend smoothly into water. In simple terms, it lets you mix things that normally refuse to mix, which is why it turns up in body mists, room sprays, bath products and many cosmetic formulations. Azlok stocks it as a cosmetic raw ingredient in packs from 100 grams to 25 kilograms.
What is Polysorbate 80?
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic, non-ionic surfactant made from sorbitol and oleic acid. It is a viscous, yellow to amber liquid with a faint smell. Because it is a surfactant, it reduces the surface tension between oil and water, allowing tiny oil droplets to disperse evenly instead of separating and floating on top.
A few quick technical details for those who like specifics:
- Chemical name: Polysorbate 80 / Tween 80
- CAS number: 9005-65-6
- Chemical formula: C64H124O26
- Form: Liquid (yellow to amber)
- Shelf life: around 24 months
Common uses
Its main job is emulsifying and solubilising, so most uses come back to combining oil and water. In home and small-batch formulating you will see it used for:
- Body mists and perfume sprays: to dissolve a small amount of fragrance oil or essential oil into water so the mixture stays clear and doesn't leave oily specks on skin.
- Room and linen sprays: the same principle, keeping fragrance evenly dispersed.
- Bath products: to help essential oils disperse in bath water instead of sitting on the surface.
- Creams, lotions and cleansers: as part of an emulsifier system to keep the oil and water phases from separating.
- Makeup removers and micellar-style waters: to gently lift oil-based residues.
It is also widely used in pharmaceutical and food industries as a stabiliser, though those are regulated commercial applications rather than typical home use.
How to use it
Polysorbate 80 is easy to work with because it is already liquid and cold-processable. A general starting rule is to use it at roughly the same weight as, or slightly more than, the oil or fragrance you want to disperse.
- Weigh your fragrance oil or essential oil.
- Combine it with an equal or slightly larger amount of Polysorbate 80 and stir until uniform.
- Slowly add this blend to your water phase while stirring.
- Adjust upward a little if the mixture still looks cloudy or if oil rises to the top.
For lotions and creams, follow your chosen recipe's percentages rather than guessing, since it usually works alongside other emulsifiers and a preservative. Always add a suitable preservative to any water-containing product to prevent microbial growth.
Safety and handling
Polysorbate 80 is meant for external use only. Please keep these points in mind:
- Keep it out of the reach of children.
- Avoid direct contact with the eyes; rinse well with water if it gets in.
- Do not ingest it for DIY purposes; food and pharma grades are handled under separate controls.
- Patch-test any finished cosmetic on a small area of skin before regular use.
- Work in a clean space and use accurate scales for consistent results.
As with any raw ingredient, review the COA and MSDS for the batch you buy and store your documentation.
Buying and storage tips
Choose your pack size based on how often you formulate. A 100 gram or 500 gram pack is sensible for testing recipes and small batches, while 5 kg and larger drums suit soap makers, candle and cosmetic businesses buying in bulk. Azlok offers sizes from 100 grams up to 25 kilograms so you can scale as your projects grow.
Store the bottle tightly closed in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat. Used this way, it keeps well within its roughly 24-month shelf life. If the liquid thickens in cold weather, gently warming the container usually restores it.
FAQ
What is the difference between Polysorbate 80 and Polysorbate 20?
Both are emulsifiers, but Polysorbate 80 is derived from oleic acid and is generally better for dispersing heavier oils, while Polysorbate 20 is lighter and often preferred for delicate, low-viscosity fragrances. Many formulators keep both on hand.
How much Polysorbate 80 do I need to mix fragrance into water?
A common starting point is an equal weight of Polysorbate 80 to fragrance oil, adjusting slightly upward until the mixture stays clear and doesn't separate. Exact amounts depend on the specific oil.
Is Polysorbate 80 safe for skin?
It is widely used in cosmetics and personal care products for external application. As with any ingredient, do a patch test, keep it away from the eyes, and don't ingest it.
Does Polysorbate 80 need a preservative in my product?
Yes. It does not preserve anything. Any product containing water needs a suitable preservative to prevent bacteria and mould.
Why is my Polysorbate 80 thick or cloudy?
Cold temperatures can make it thicken. Warming the bottle gently in warm water usually returns it to a pourable, clear liquid without affecting quality.