D-Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): Uses and Use Levels

D-panthenol is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), which is why it's sold as pro-vitamin B5. Its pharmacopoeia name is dexpanthenol. In cosmetics it works as a humectant: it draws and holds water, so hair and skin feel softer.

• Formula: C9H19NO4
• CAS number: 81-13-0
• Molar mass: about 205.3 g/mol
• Appearance: clear, colourless, very thick, sticky liquid with a faint smell
• Solubility: mixes freely with water and alcohol, not with oils

It is hygroscopic, which means it pulls moisture from the air if the bottle is left open.

Azlok lists D-Panthenol Gel (Pro Vitamin B-5) as a cosmetic raw ingredient. The listing doesn't give a pack size or strength, so check the product page. Panthenol is often supplied as neat thick liquid or as a 75% solution in water. Ask which one you're getting, because it changes how much you add. See today's price per kg.

• Hair care: shampoos, conditioners, hair serums and leave-in sprays, where it adds moisture, softness and shine.
• Skin care: creams, lotions, gels and after-sun products, as a humectant.
• Lip and baby care: lip balms and gentle baby lotions.
• Nail care: nail and cuticle products.
• Gels and sprays: clear aloe-type gels, face mists and setting sprays, since it dissolves fully in water and doesn't cloud the product.

It pairs well with glycerine and hyaluronic acid in hydrating products, and with conditioning agents in hair care.

• Typical levels: about 0.5 to 5% in finished products. Rinse-off shampoos tend to sit at the low end, leave-on creams and hair serums higher.
• Where to add: it dissolves in water, so add it to the water phase or at the cool-down stage, below about 40 °C.
• Handling: it's very thick. Warm the bottle in a bowl of warm water to make it pour, and weigh it instead of measuring by volume.
• pH: it's most stable in products with a mildly acidic to neutral pH, roughly 4 to 7.

These are typical ranges. Patch test any finished product on the inner arm for 24 hours before regular use. Finished cosmetics sold in India also need to meet the applicable BIS and CDSCO rules.

• It's mild, but keep it out of the eyes. Rinse with water if it gets in.
• Close the bottle tightly after each use, since it absorbs moisture from the air.
• Store at room temperature, away from heat and direct sunlight.
• It's sticky. Wipe spills with a damp cloth.
• Keep away from children. It's a cosmetic raw ingredient, not for eating or medicinal use.

Since you only add a few percent, a small pack covers many test batches for a home maker. Brands making shampoo or conditioner in volume should buy at least 1 kg and ask for the certificate of analysis showing strength and purity. For 25 kg or more, use the bulk inquiry form.